Posted by Shivam Singh
On 12th Feb, 2021
***Kinnaur Roadtrip***
Date: 24th November 2020
Last night we slept hoping and praying for a sunny morning today.
As the bright light entered inside our terrace room at around 7:30 AM, all 3 of us jumped out of our bed to look outside. The entire scenery was glowing in black and white color. Mountains, river and valley: everything was completely visible.
Snowfall had stopped and sun was negotiating hard with clouds to come out and shine. Situation was promising and seemed like it will be fit to travel in another 3-4 hours.
Soon our taxi driver for today’s Chitkul trip arrived and gave us the bad news that it will be impossible to reach Chitkul due to overnight heavy snowfall there. We requested and finally he agreed to give this a try in 2200 rupees. Start time was decided as 11:30 AM.
Our vehicle for today was a Mahindra Bolero Camper, customized with a four wheel drive system.
Time was 8:30 AM, we spent the next 1 hour enjoying the beauty of nature and capturing it in our cameras.
Sharad once again was ready to prepare maggie and omlette on the camping stove. Me and Prabal just gave helping hands. Benefit of choosing the terrace room was an exceptional view, open space for using stove and barbeque.
Chitkul
23 km from Sangla, located at an altitude of 3450 meter and famously known as the last inhabited village with a motorable road on the Indo-Tibet Border, Chitkul is the most beautiful village of the Baspa Valley.
According to a study by Centre of Atmospheric Sciences at IIT Delhi, Chitkul has the cleanest air in India.
In winters the village receives heavy snow and remains cut-off from the rest of the world for almost 3 months. During these months Dec-Feb, I do not advise to spend overnight in Chitkul even if the road is open. The road might close any night, stranding you in the middle of nowhere from weeks to month, as being a remote village help reaches very late.
You can visit this place safely during any other months of the year with a guarantee to witness a paradise.
Start of Trip
We were punctual and started for Chitkul sharp at 11:30 AM.
We were aware that this won’t be an easy ride and a risk of getting stuck anywhere will always be there.
So far we were just enjoying the beauty from our hotel terrace. As we were moving towards Chitkul, within 2 km, the entire landscape turned into a scene just out of the dreams and was getting better and better. We could literally point our cameras in any direction and click, rest being sure it will be a marvellous pic.
We kept motivating the driver with a cautious statement, “stop if you think its enough“, although from inside we were hoping to reach Chitkul.
After-all, the entire 9 day trip was planned with Chitkul as main destination.
Our extremely polite driver, Mr Hari Negi, was acting as a tour guide as well giving us all the important information en-route: related to risks during winters, past experiences, what people do for their living, nearby areas and villages etc. He also owned an apple orchard from where he promised to give us apples before we leave Sangla.
After 13 km and 45 min, we reached Rakcham (a small village mid-way situated at a height of 3048 metres with a small population of 800 people).
You can find few guest-houses here as well for stay, if you do not want a risky stay at Chitkul in winters.
So far we didn’t faced any hurdle which was strange and boring (in terms of adventure) also, when suddenly a local noticed and informed that our vehicle tyre was punctured. Our excitement went double when we came to know that the spare tyre or stepney was not fit for driving in such heavy snow 🙂
After a wait of 30-40 mins, our driver somehow borrowed a tyre from a local friend (in such small areas, everyone is a friend). Soon we were once again moving forward with cameras in our hand and Go-pro doing its job on the front screen.
So far we were driving on road covered half with snow, part of it was still visible, but after about 2-3 km from Rakcham, the situation was changing rapidly.
Soon our driver stopped pointing to heavy snow on the road. Then was the first time he activated 4-by-4 on his vehicle.
At first we thought it wont be difficult, but we underestimated the power of snow. Our driver told us these roads need heavy vehicle with good tyres and 4 wheel drive system is must.
Snow was getting deeper on the road and Chitkul was still 8-9 km. We were getting impatient and worried thinking we may have to return back from the middle. But still the beautiful scenery was making us energetic.
None of us personally had witnessed such an eye-catchy and majestic site. Camera photos were definitely not justifying the actual beauty of the place, what our eyes were seeing.
Just when the GPS was showing Chitkul still 3 km away, we saw a beautiful sign board giving us details about the height of the area.
We were sure that we almost reached and jumped out of our taxi for clicking pictures of the spot. Snowfall also started by now and we know we had to hurry as the situation can go bad anytime.
Had a cup of tea at the only open shop there near Rani Guest House while enjoying the view and clicking photographs. All 3 of us fell at least once there on slippery surfaces.
Soon our driver asked us to leave as the snowfall was getting heavier to which we had to agree, no other choice. In normal weather, you can go further 2 km till ITBP border check-post and can also play around at Baspa river bank.
Visiting Chitkul in such awesome weather with a picturesque surroundings was like a dream come true. We were satisfied to the core of our heart and were constantly thanking our wonderful driver Mr Hari Negi.
While returning, our vehicle got hit sideways by another vehicle coming from opposite direction as it got slipped. It was terrifying as we were on the valley side and got further dragged towards it but so far this adventure was missing which also got checked 🙂
We were carrying camping stove and Maggie packets to use at river side which was impossible, so we identified a place 4-5 km from Chitkul while going back. Sharad as usual was the leader in this, rest we helped him on need basis. Soon it was ready, we satisfied our taste buds, clicked some photos and left for Sangla.
We reached back to Sangla at around 4:00 PM and straight went to the market to our pre-decided place for food “Tibatian Cafe“. There we ordered and tried Thupka along with Veg & Non-veg momos. In every restaurant serving momos there, you will get a bowl of soup which is extra delicious.
Once again snowfall was in full force, without wasting any time in the market we drove towards the hotel for discussing today’s adventure patiently and peacefully. We also had to figure out next day’s backup plan as the weather forecast was bad for next 2 days.
See you in the next blog, till then Happy Travelling.
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6 Comments
Prabal · February 13, 2021 at 12:58 pm
It was an excellent trip. Looking forward for another one
Shivam Singh · February 14, 2021 at 6:13 pm
Be ready for May adventure.. 🙂
Sharad · February 13, 2021 at 12:06 pm
You rock Tripvaani in capturing each and every details of the trip
Shivam Singh · February 14, 2021 at 6:13 pm
Thank you… 🙂
Sharad · February 13, 2021 at 12:05 pm
This was the most enjoyable day of our trip
Shivam Singh · February 14, 2021 at 6:14 pm
Indeed it was and the riskiest as well along with the next day’s journey.